Tasting in the Santa Rita Hills

Last weekend, my daughter and trusty tasting partner, Hilary, and I headed off for a little getaway to Santa Barbara County for some wine tasting. The day was partly cloudy and the clouds added dimension and interesting lighting as we drove along the Pacific and into the Santa Ynez foothills. Even though California hasn’t seen much rain this season, there was lots of brilliant green visible in the rolling hillsides. It was truly stunning scenery.

Our first stop was Hilliard Bruce Vineyard that I had visited during the 2014 Wine Blogger’s Conference and, again, in 2016.  The tasting room is open by appointment only and after ringing the call bell, the gate swung open and we drove up the familiar driveway to the winery.  Elena and Mark, the tasting room hosts, welcomed us and we began with Hilliard Bruce 2014 Chardonnay. Barrel fermentation in 30 percent new oak balances the wine’s acidity. It is bright and citrusy and has aromas of white flowers. I requested a taste of the 2015 Chardonnay to compare, and found the 2015 to be much more acidic. Time in the bottle should smooth it out. Next we tasted through the 2014 portfolio of Hilliard Bruce Pinot Noir. They are named Earth, Sky, Sun and Moon, and each name says something about where the grapes were grown.  For example, Earth is a co-fermentation (the grapes are fermented together, rather than separately and then blended) of the five Pinot Noir blocks, thereby embodying the “earth” of Hilliard Bruce.  It was difficult to choose a favorite, but I finally settled on Sun.  Sun is made from three Pinot Noir clones, grown on the sunniest, most southward facing part of the vineyard.  In the glass, the wine is a gorgeous clear red, bursting with both red and dark fruit flavors with the distinct tang of oak on the palate.  It would pair well with some of my favorite recipes such as salmon with blueberry sauce or pork tenderloin with balsamic glaze.

Leaving Hilliard Bruce, we drove a few miles down Route 246 to Pence Vineyards and Winery.  I knew of Pence from the 2014 Wine Blogger’s Conference, but had never visited the property.  Pence has an appointment only tasting policy; you can select from several experiences and for this visit, I chose the Dock Tasting.  We were warmly met as we approached the tasting room and introduced to two of the three Rhodesian Ridgeback dogs that call the vineyard home.  A generous splash of their lovely, just bottled 2017 Rose of Pinot Noir was presented to us and then we were introduced to our host, Phil Gallanders.

Phil led us along a path and up a few steps to the dock, pointing out a pink peppercorn tree along the way and cutting me a cluster.  The day was a bit cool and breezy, but still comfortable as we settled ourselves for the tasting.  A tempting tray of cheeses, charcuterie and nuts was on the table and we began with Pence 2016 PTG Estate Gamay. This wine is a blend of 50 percent Gamay and 50 percent Pinot Noir and is made in the  “passe-tout-grains” style found in Burgundy. It is a clear garnet red and has lively flavors of red fruits and some spice on the finish.  Our next wine was their 2016 Estate Pinot Noir.  It is a blend of grapes from all 9 Pinot Noir blocks and it is a classic, easy drinking, food-friendly Pinot.  In contrast was our next wine, the 2016 UNUM Estate Pinot Noir, that is a single block Pinot.  It was picked at low brix (not too ripe), fermented in concrete, and then aged in 35 percent new oak.  The wine is a full bodied Pinot with dominant flavors of dark cherries.  Single vineyard wines at Pence have labels with their “penny” insignia and the slogan “We are One.” As our time on the dock came to an end, we reluctantly headed back to the tasting room.  The setting, extraordinary wines, and Phil’s knowledge provided us with an outstanding experience.  Be sure to include Pence should you be visiting in this area.

Our day concluded with dinner at Mattei’s Tavern.  I enjoyed dinner at this wonderful restaurant in 2014 and always wanted to return.  It dates back to 1886 and was a former stagecoach stop. We were seated at a cozy table and decided to splurge on red meat, prime rib for Hilary and rack of lamb for me.  A consultation with our wait staff resulted in the selection of 2014 Byron Pinot Noir, Rita’s Crown Vineyard.  On the palate, this rich Pinot showed dark fruits, spice, and a slight salinity that played well with the dinner meats.  We finished our wine by the blazing fireplace in the bar, looking forward to what the next day would hold.

Details of that day forthcoming!

Cheers!