Stolpman Syrah

Peter and Tom Stolpman

The Wine House, a wonderful wine shop in West Los Angeles, hosted Stolpman Vineyards for a grand tasting earlier this month. I’m a huge fan of The Wine House and they do an exceptional job with their tastings. First of all, events are not oversold, meaning you aren’t endlessly waiting in line at the tables and you can actually chat with the wine experts who are pouring. In addition, they provide generous amounts of food to keep guests’ stomachs full and to assist in transitioning the palate between wine types.

The entire Stolpman crew was on hand for this tasting: Tom Stolpman, the patriarch and founder; Peter, Tom’s son and managing partner (who was dressed in anticipation of his upcoming trip to France); Kyle Knapp, wine maker; and Ruben Solorzano, vineyard manager and “grape whisperer.” I first learned about Stolpman and Ballard Canyon at the 2014 Wine Blogger’s Conference, while attending a breakout session on Syrah, where Peter was one of the panelists. Ballard Canyon was only recently (October 2013) designated as an official American Viticultural Area (AVA). The climate in the canyon is perfect for growing Syrah, so that is what the Stolpmans chose as their focus. Stolpman Vineyard is the largest in Ballard Canyon and is considered the founding grower. A dozen more highly respected vineyard owners also purchased land in Ballard and the canyon is currently planted with 60 percent Syrah grapes.

At this event, twenty-five wines were presented for tasting. Looking over the tasting menu, I realized I needed to plan my strategy. I always like to start with a few whites and rosés, so I visited the first table to sample some of the 2018 wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, Para Maria Rosé (named for Ruben’s wife), and Rosé of Grenache. The Sauvignon Blanc is a lovely expression of the grape, with an initial pop of citrus and then layers of apple and pear. The Para Maria Rosé is a blend of Syrah, Merlot, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is a deeper shade of rose with lots of tropical fruit, perfect for sipping or pairing with light fare. The Stolpmans changed the wine making technique for their Rosé of Grenache last year, leaving only 20 percent of the grapes on the skins, resulting in a lovely, paler color. The 2018 is a subtle salmon shade, bursting with the aroma and flavor of red cherries.

Label Art is the Church in Ruben’s Home Town

It was time to move on to the two most intriguing tables at the tasting, a horizontal tasting of six 2014 wines, five Syrahs and one Syrah/Sangiovese blend (Croce), and a vertical tasting of four Syrahs, crafted by Ruben (Hecho por Ruben), with vintages 2011 through 2014. A horizontal tasting means that you are tasting a particular varietal of wine of the same vintage (wines can be from one producer or multiple) and vertical tastings are the same wine over several consecutive years. Wow! I just wish I could have experienced tasting these wines in a seated scenario with more time to compare and consider the unique characteristics of each.

I am always interested in vertical tastings because you can see, smell, and taste how the growing season influenced each wine’s unique characteristics. Ruben embarked on a project in which he would make wines using exactly the same fermentation and aging processes, enabling him to better assess the differences made by pruning, vine training, and picking decisions. 2011 presented some challenges including April frost, followed by winds, and a persistent marine layer. In contrast, years 2012-2014 were perfect growing seasons. All four of these wines are stunning examples of Central Coast Syrah, each one unique. I particularly enjoyed the 2013 with its initial impression of dark cherries and plums followed by lingering savory spices. The wine has a rich, round mouthfeel with an appealing balance between the fruit acids and light tannins.

I’m happy I purchased Ruben’s vertical and my biggest challenge will be whether to gather up some friends and taste them side by side, or just enjoy them one at a time with a perfect meal!

Cheers!